Day 8 - Lake Yamdrok Tso

At this point in the trip, I was still not aclimated to the altitude. My sinuses were dry as a bone resulting in spontaneous nosebleeds and my head was still pounding from time to time. So, when the day's excursions included a trip to a lake even higher in the mountains, I thought, "What? Is my head going to explode?" Of course, it did not and the views were absolutely gorgeous AND I got this fantastic photo that never should have happened. You see, the man with the yak required that you pay him if you took a picture and I didn't want to do that. So, when he turned, I covertly pulled out my camera and snapped away. I thought the picture would turn out blurry but instead got this fantastic shot.

Day 7 - Lhasa - my hotel bathroom.

I've been to many places in the world and this was a first for me. And really, maybe that's the truly surprising thing that this was a first. Although it's difficult to make out in the photo, perched on the back of the toilet are a couple of condoms for sale. I think they were around a quarter a piece. Every time I saw them, I thought, "Really? Tibet is the first place I've been in the world where they're selling condoms from the back of the hotel toilet? Tibet?!?"

Day 7 - Lhasa

The open air market is such a wonderful experience and, the more I travel, the more I realize is how universal the experience is. This guy could be sitting in a market in Morroco, Saudi Arabia, Mexico, Hong Kong or he could be at a swap meet in rural Ohio. In this case, he was sitting in the street outside my hotel in Lhasa, Tibet and, if I needed anything horse related, I knew right where to get it!

Day 7 - Lhasa - the Great Monk Debate Chant with Hats

The monks debated, they chanted and then they pulled out.....the hats. Could this spectacle possibly get any more amazing?!? I think not! The fantasticness of the hats speaks for itself. Loved it!

Day 7 - Lhasa - the Great Monk Debate Chant

Suddenly, the debating stopped. It didn't gradually wind down. There was no noticeable signal that it was finished. It just abruptly came to an end. All the monks gathered their things, formed a semi-circle at one end of the courtyard and started to chant. It was magical! Transfixed is not a word I usual use or a state that I would say I'm often in but I was transfixed. I could have sat their and listened forever. Like I said, it was magical....

Day 7 - Lhasa - the Great Monk Debate

Toward the end of the debate, the mood changed dramatically. The frowns and scowls turned to grins. You could tell that they were enjoying themselves which was not at all clear at the beginning of the debate. I do want to point out the tourists in the background perched at the edges of the courtyard. We were literally in their faces as they debated and they completely ignored us. It was a bit odd.

Day 7 - Lhasa - The Great Monk Debate

The great monk debate (as I'm calling it) was beyond anything I could have imagined. The courtyard of the monastery was packed with monks some sitting while the others stood over them. The standing monks were clearly the ones in a position of authority and were "schooling" the monks on the ground. I'd imagined the debate looking more like something from the British parliament but it was more like a mock argument. The entire time the standing monks were angrily yelling and pointing at the sitting monks then, suddenly, they would rear back and then slap their hands together into the sitting monks' faces. It was fascinating! I really have never seen anything like it. I asked my guide what they were arguing about. He kinda shrugged and said, "Deep spiritual things."

Day 7 - Lhasa - Lunch

On my second day in Lhasa, I returned to the place I'd had lunch the day before. The food was terrific and there was a fantastic view of the plaza in front of the Jokhang Temple. The first day, my guide sat and chatted with me though he didn't have anything to eat. The second day, he sat at a separate table with some other Tibetans who I assume were also guides. I guess I wasn't a great lunchtime companion. Pictured is the Napali curry set I ordered the second day which was delicious.

Day 7 - Lhasa - the Summer Palace and Gardens

While touring the Summer Palace and Gardens, my guide sat and chatted with an older woman who was sitting near the residence that was on an island in the middle of a pond (pictured above). She offered both of us a "special" candy made from yak milk. The stuff tasted like really hard, solidified butter. In other words....not so good. I asked her to hold it up while I took her picture. She offered me more but I politely declined.

Day 7 - Lhasa - the Summer Palace and Gardens

My second full day in Lhasa started out a little lame. First, my guide took me to the National Museum which was more an opportunity for the Tibetans to hock their wares (half of the museum was a souvenir shop) than a true display of national treasures. Next, we went across the street to the Summer Palace and Gardens. The gardens were ill-kept and the residences far from palatial. A highlight, though. was the summer palace of the current Dalai Lama (pictured above). His residence is on the second level and has not been altered since he went into exile (sometime in the 70s?). The place looks like my grandmother's living room - all groovy crushed velvet furniture and tassled curtains. A total blast from the past! I got into a bit of trouble while I was there. While it was very clearly marked that photography was not allowed, I was the sole visitor with no one else around. I thought, "What's the harm?" and started snapping pictures. Suddenly, an alarm sounds and a pair of young Tibetans rush in saying, "Sorry, sorry, no pictures!" They were quite serious making sure the photos were deleted from my camera before I was allowed to leave. Guilty as charged!

Day 7 - Lhasa - in front of Jokhang Temple

My second day in Lhasa and I was back in front of the Jokhang Temple where the swirl of activity never got old. In the foreground, a group of pilgrims is tossing some type of herb into one of the ovens (there was a second that you can see in the background) in front of the temple. Unfortunately, I have no idea of the significance of this.

Day 7 - Lhasa - the street market in front of my hotel

I mentioned previously that yak is a mainstay in Tibetan culture and cuisine - not only the meat but also dairy products. Here we have yak butter which is used in a variety of things including yak butter candles and yak butter tea. While I didn't end up lighting a candle, I did try the tea. It tasted a bit like macaroni and cheese sauce. Mmmm...yummy?

Day 6 - Lhasa

Colorful people, colorful buildings, colorful landscape. This place is just so dang colorful! I'm standing in front of the Jokhang Palace in the path of the oncoming pilgrims and just taking it all in. The only specific thing I want to point out in this photo is the prayer wheel. The man about dead center is holding what looks like a broom stick with a wooden cylinder on top. The cylinder has a little ball attached that spins with a slight motion of the pole. Many of the pilgrims carried these as they walked and prayed. I'm almost certain the prayer wheel spins in a clockwise direction.

Day 6 - Lhasa - in front of the Jokhang Temple

I followed the pilgrim's path around to the front of the Jokhang Temple where many of the pilgrims had stopped to prayer. Most of prayers were prostrating themselves towards the temple. In this picture, you can see many of the implements they use to make prostrating a little more comfortable such as prayer mats to lower themselves onto and hand pads they strap on so that it's not their bare palms gliding across the ground. Funny thing of note: the two monks are walking completely in synch. They both have their back leg raised to the same level so that it looks like they're standing on one leg.

Day 6 - Lhasa

I've mentioned that some of the pilgrims were prostating themselves as they made clockwise circuits around the Potala Palace and Jokhang Temple. In the picture are three pilgrims, in various stages of the process. It goes something like this:

• Begin in a standing position with hands in prayer position in front of the heart.
• Bend down in a squat placing hands flat on the ground.
• Glide forward on your hands until lying face down with hands and arms in front (the superman position).
• While still lying flat, bend at the elbows bringing the hands to a prayer position behind the head.
• In one smooth motion, bring hands back, push up to a squat and then into a standing position.
• Take a step forward and start all over again.

Day 6 - Lhasa

It was hot, I was tired and I wanted a nice cold beverage. Luckily, I found a fantastic cafe with a rooftop veranda overlooking the path the pilgrims were following. The cafe sat on a corner so the top picture is my view straight ahead while the bottom picture is looking to my right. Great view! Cold beverage! Great company (my guide was becoming a bit more talkative)! Everything was perfect except for...the bloody nose. While I had been getting more aclimated to the altitude (headaches lessening), the thin and extremely dry air was wreaking havoc with my sinuses. Occasionally when I went to blow my nose, it would start to bleed. So, while sharing a table with the nice couple across from me and their friend to my right, I go to blow my nose and it starts gushing. The worst part was that I couldn't get a new tissue out while trying to stop the bleeding. As soon as they saw what was happening, they came to my rescue and handed me a tissue. "Ick" was the look on the woman's face. Ick is right.

Day 6 - Lhasa

Shopping in Lhasa was available in abundance. Not only do you have foreign visitors but also pilgrims coming from all over Tibet looking for a keepsake from their trip to the big city. Over time and my many travels, I have found it more and more difficult to get excited about bargaining for one more trinket that will end up on a shelf collecting dust. However, inevitably, I do usually buy something, because, ya know, you're there and there's stuff to buy and, well, I can't go home completely empty-handed, right? Pictured is my guide Tashi bargaining for a bronze yak. I did end up with a yak but not this one. Although, this one may have been the better deal....

Day 6 - Lhasa

Similar to the Catholic tradition of lighting a candle to honor a saint, the Tibetan buddhists lit yak butter candles to honor a Buddha. Candles were usually set on the alter in front of a particular Buddha. However, in a room below ground level directly in front of the Jokhang Temple was the granddaddy of all candle alters. The top picture was taken by peering through the window of the low-walled building in the bottom picture. Oddly, it looks a little industrial but what you're seeing is row-upon-row of yak butter candles. I believe, the way it worked, is that you paid some amount of money to place a candle in one of the rows. Placing a candle in front of the Jokhang Temple perhaps secured a blessing from all the Buddhas inside?

Day 6 - Lhasa

Unfortunately, I didn't learn a lot about the significance of the prayer poles. What I do know is:

• There are four of them each situated at an external corner of the Jokhang Temple complex,
• All are completed wrapped in Tibetan prayer flags and
• It seems necessary for the pilgrims to pass on the outside of them as the circle the temple.

Occasionally, a pilgrim would stop at an individual pole and circle the pole clockwise while praying.

Day 6 - Lhasa

From the roof of the Jokhang Temple, you could look onto the main square of the old city and there was a lot to take in. In the far background in front of the mountains, sits the Potala Place - forever awesome! At the far edge of the square under the red tents was a unit of the Chinese military police. Their presence was everywhere in the old city apparently fearful that the peaceful, Tibetan pilgrims would somehow stage an uprising. They looked kinda badass but really, they were so little, they looked more like toy soldiers than the real thing. Sorry Chinese military. On either side of the square were booth after booth of vendors hawking their wares. Twas a souvenir seeker's paradise. In the foreground on the right sits a prayer pole wrapped in Tibetan prayer flags. To the left of the prayer pole is a line of pilgrims filing past. They turned to the right past another prayer pole and then continued on a clockwise path around the temple. The scene was endlessly fascinating!

Day 6 - Lhasa

The Jokhang Temple is one of the holiest sites in Tibetan Buddhism and, on the day I was there, was a complete madhouse inside. It seems that many of the tour groups are on a similiar schedule so everyone shows up at the same time. The nice thing is that you tend to see the same people over and over again so you begin to feel like you know them. What is it about familiarity? Makes us feel safe, I suppose. In any case, lots of Buddhas in the temple - actually one of the most important ones. Sadly, the wonder of them was a little lost on me. I had Buddha fatigue. This photo is from the roof of the temple which is one of the few spots where picture-taking is allowed.

Day 6 - Lhasa

Upon entering one of the main courtyards of the Jokhang Temple, we were treated to a "song and dance" by a group of workers on the roof. Of course, I had NO idea what they were chanting and my guide was of little to no help. Seriously, I wish I knew what they were saying 'cause it was a bit odd. Regardless, as you can see from all the cameras pointed heavenward, we tourists were eating it up.

Day 6 - Lhasa

Two sites in Lhasa were the focus of the pilgrimage. The first, the Potala Palace, I visited in the morning. The second, the Jokhang Temple, I visited in the afternoon. Both had a steady stream of pilgrims circling them (always in a clockwise direction) as they prayed. At the front entrance of the temple, pilgrims would stop and prostrate themselves while praying something I saw over and over again during the next several days. This physical act of prayer I am still marveling over.

Day 6 - Lhasa

By night, the street in front of my hotel was dark, seemingly abandoned and a little scary. By day, it was transformed into a bustling street market selling everything from tourist trinkets to yak butter. The top photo is looking toward my hotel (the tall building in the background). The bottom photo is looking away from my hotel toward to the main square of the old city. A whirlwind of activity and a feast for the eyes!

Day 6 - Lhasa

This is the design painted on the border of my very colorfully decorated room. This style of decoration and painting was very common in most Tibetan-style homes and buildings. Unfortunately, I can't tell you more than that which is a shame. For example, I'm wondering, "Who is this dude with the drapes of cloth clutched in this teeth? Is he a pig? A monk or buddha with pointy ears? Some sort of mythical creature?" Sorry, I just don't know.

Day 6 - Lhasa

Seeing monks never gets old for me. There's a dignity, a timelessness and even a little mystery to them that always captures my attention. This group had just finished their tour of the Potala Place was resting in the shade out of the mid-day sun. They were surprisingly game in allowing several of us tourists to snap their photo. One rule is that you should never touch a monk. However, taking pictures must be OK.

Day 6 - Lhasa

The view while exiting the Potala Palace was equally as beautiful as the one going in. Although I was only given an hour to view the palace, I was in no hurry to leave. I fould myself lingering as long as I could taking in the view and absorbing the entire atmosphere. There was a charge of excitement in the air surrounding the place and it was addictive.

Day 6 - Lhasa

This is the highest point in my climb up the Potala Palace where photos were allowed. You can see the crowd lining up to enter the main quarters of the palace. If the Dalai Lama were not in exile, this is where he would reside. The interior of the palace was as impressive as anything I've seen in Europe even more so since it is not a historic building. It is as alive and vibrant today as the day it was built. While fairly apolitical when it comes to internal Chinese polictics, I kept thinking, "The Dalai Lama needs to be here."

Day 6 - Lhasa

After a long climb, lots of panting and gorgeous views, I finally made it to the entrance of the palace (insert sigh of relief). Things of note: 1) The architecture and decoration - the ornate painting of the columns, ceiling, shutters and around the windows. Also, the thin skirt of white fabric hanging around the edges of the roof which blew peacefully in the wind. This was all very typical everywhere I went. 2) The pilgrim in front of me - wearing a long dress, a straw hat, a face mask (difficult to see) and clutching prayer beads. 3) Finally, my guide Tashi in the upper right-hand corner, patiently waiting for me. He didn't seem winded at all.

Day 6 - Lhasa

The huffing, puffing and pounding of the heart that I endured while while climbing the steps of the Potala were well worth it because the views were stunning. It was kind of OK that I had to stop frequently to catch my breath 'cause it forced for to stop and take a look around. Lhasa and it's high altitude was demanding my attention and it deserved it. Beautiful!

Day 6 - Lhasa

The tour of the Potala Palace began at the top (literally) and getting there was no small feat. The number of steps would have been daunting in any situation but add in the effects of the altitude and it quite a heart-pounding experience (again -literally). To make it even more challenging, we were on a schedule. Each tour has one hour to get through the palace or the guide is fined. We had 10 minutes to get to the top or we'd miss our entrance window. My guide finally decided to run ahead to purchase the ticket rather than risk my collapse. Ah, the perils of travel!

Day 6 - Lhasa

The Potala Palace is amazing in its absolute grandeur. It's one of those structures that, when you're near, you can't take your eyes off of it. As we approached the palace, I had my first encounter with the pilgrimage in Lhasa. Tibetans come from all over to circle the palace (always clockwise) and pray. I asked my guide if this happened every day. He parroted back, "Every day." I soon realized that this was part of his English language strategy. I would ask something and he would repeat back part of my question as his response. Good way to practice pronunciation.

Day 6 - Lhasa, Tibet

After greatly looking forward to arriving in Tibet, all forces seemed to be working against it being a pleasant experience. The list includes: I was travel weary; I had a pounding headache; I couldn't find my guide and when I did his English was not so good; The ride into town (it was dark) was not very inspiring. While I was hoping for a lot of local flavor, everything looked very Chinese; We turned down a very dark alley to get to the hotel and the hotel had a big metal gate (never a good sign when your hotel has a big metal gate); While the hotel staff was very friendly, the place was a little shabby AND the rooftop bar (I could have really used a night cap) was abandoned - not just closed, abandoned! Luckily, as is usually the case when the mood starts to spiral down, I was able to hit the reset button. After a good night's sleep, I climbed the stairs (huffing and puffing - alititude!) to the abandoned bar for the view. What awaited me was magical! The Potala Palace was straight ahead of me, Tibetan prayer flags tied to everything were softly fluttering in the wind, the city was surrounded by mountains and a gorgeous blue sky topped it all. I thought, "OK. This is gonne be cool!"

Day 5 - The train from Shanghai to Lhasa

Who wants to sit with the foreigner? Answer: Nobody. I can't lie. My feelings were a little hurt and it made me feel a little lonely. Traveling alone, there are always a few moments of loneliness and this was one of them. With only one dining car, people had to share tables. There I sat all alone. People kept coming in but would stand and wait for a space at another table. Boo hoo! Poor me! The good news? It was a set menu so I didn't have to worry whether or not the waitress spoke English. She just brought me this delectable tray of Chinese train cuisine. Not bad really.

Day 5 - The train from Shanghai to Lhasa

At it's highest point, the rail line to Tibet reaches almost 5,000 meters above sea level. While I was told that there was oxygen being pumped into the train, I could still clearly feel the effects of the altitude. I had a slamming headache and trouble breathing. It felt similar to when you're feeling anxious and having difficulty catching your breath. It seemed more psychological than physical and I kept thinking, "Am I really having trouble breathing?" YES! Pictured is a station platform next to a lake seemingly on the top of the world. The rumor circulating on the train was that a tourist had collapsed and died after getting out on the platform to take pictures. So we were not allowed to leave the safety of the oxygenated train to take photos. Fact or fiction?

Day 5 - The train from Shanghai to Lhasa

This was my first yak citing. Yak are basically furry, high-altitude cows and are at the center of Tibetan culture and cuisine. While in Tibet I had yak dumplings, yak enchiladas, yak butter tea (which tasted a bit like macaroni and cheese sauce), a yak noodle bowl and yak curry - all quite tasty! If there had been a McDonald's in Tibet, I'm quite certain they would have served a Yak Big Mac.

Day 5 - The train from Shanghai to Lhasa

Most of day 2 on my train-ride adventure was at very high altitude. The phrase that kept coming to mind to describe the terrain was "moonscape." BUT, considering there was snow and a fine layer of something growing on the ground, moonscape doesn't quite work. Maybe otherworldly? In any case, it was unlike anything I've ever seen in this wonderful world of ours and it was absolutely beautiful!

Day 4 & 5 - The Train from Shanghai to Lhasa

When you're on a train for two days sharing a compartment with as many as three others. you hope for good travel companions. I have to say that with one small exception, I landed on the lucky side of the draw. The first day, I was with a newly married Chinese couple who were on their honeymoon. They both worked for Chinese Petroleum and his English was quite good while she wanted to practice hers. I had a great time talking with them. The funny thing: she would talk to me when he was out of the compartment but, when he was there, she became shy and insisted that he speak for her. I was a little sad to see them go. But, as replacements. I got a delightful Chinese American couple in their 70s. They both had emigrated to the US in the 1960s and received their PhDs at the Unversity of Wisconsin. They were both very proper and dignified. Sadly, she was really affected by the altitude (more on that later) and was quite sick. I mentioned that there was a small exception to my luck of the draw. One evening, we had a fourth compartment mate who was CRAY-zee! From the time he entered the train, he talked non-stop and he talked LOUDly! He was the type who would laugh at his own jokes while everyone else just stared at him with their jaws hanging open. The only saving grace for me is that he was speaking Mandarin and would stop talking when the others left the compartment and they did leave....