Being the main stage for one of the wars I grew up watching yet never truly understanding, Sarajevo was as sobering as I imagined. It was also beautiful, charming and even a little bit magical. But, we'll start with the sobering part. One of the first things we did was visit the war museum. One exhibit explained that the kitchen became the family hub since most kitchens are located in the center of the apartment away from windows. Families visited with neighbors, children did homework and laundry was dried in the kitchen amongst other activities in order to avoid sniper fire. Another exhibit explained that classes were moved to stairwells for the same reason. Horrifying!
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